Rolex’s latest addition to the Perpetual 1908 collection at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 showcases a new platinum model that brings a fresh and luxurious touch to the series. This update expands on the inaugural Perpetual collection launched in 2023 with a white gold and rose gold lineup, offering a unique design and a premium feel.
The new Perpetual 1908 in platinum features a classic round case, measuring 39 mm in diameter and 9.5 mm in thickness. The bezel design combines a domed upper part with a finely fluted lower section, adding visual interest to the watch’s silhouette. The lugs’ top edges are gently chamfered, creating smooth contours. With a water resistance rating of 5 bar (50 meters or 165 feet), the watch maintains a level of durability suitable for everyday wear.
The standout feature of the new model is its ice blue dial, decorated with a guilloché rice-grain pattern. This intricate design, achieved through traditional engine-turning techniques, lends a three-dimensional geometric aesthetic that radiates from the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Surrounding the minute track is a filet sauté with a crimped guilloché pattern, adding further texture to the dial’s layout.
Rolex’s choice of materials and craftsmanship sets this watch apart. The 950 platinum case and the guilloché dial create a sophisticated combination, while the Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, along with faceted index hour markers, provide easy legibility. The hour hand features a distinctive circle just before the tip, and the minute hand is shaped like a double-edged sword, adding a unique touch to the watch’s design.
A transparent sapphire crystal case back allows for a clear view of the self-winding Calibre 7140 movement, entirely manufactured by Rolex. This movement incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, known for its energy efficiency and reliability due to its nickel-phosphorus construction, which provides resistance to strong magnetic fields. Additionally, the movement features Rolex’s patented Syloxi hairspring made of silicon, ensuring precise timekeeping in any position. The oscillator, mounted on Rolex’s patented Paraflex shock absorbers, is designed to withstand shocks and vibrations.
The movement’s bridges are adorned with Rolex’s iconic Côtes de Genève, while the oscillating weight is crafted from 18 ct yellow gold. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the Calibre 7140 offers a power reserve of 66 hours, providing ample timekeeping capacity for regular use.
Like all Rolex watches, the Perpetual 1908 bears the Superlative Chronometer certification, which guarantees precision within -2/+2 seconds per day—surpassing COSC standards. The watch comes with a matt brown alligator leather strap featuring a green calfskin lining and tone-on-tone stitching, fastened with a triple folding clasp in 950 platinum.
Priced at CHF 29,600, Euro 31,700, or US$ 30,900, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 in platinum with a guilloché dial (ref. 52506) represents a significant step in the evolution of Rolex’s dress watches. It combines classic aesthetics with advanced technology, providing a luxurious timepiece that aligns with the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and innovation. Don’t forget that Rolex is one of the best brands for watch investment.
